The thermostat is the control device that provides a simple user interface with the internal workings of your homes climate control system. By the use of an adjustable set-point, the job of the thermostat is to turn on either the heating or cooling system to maintain the desired room temperature in the home, and to turn off the system when the desired temperature is achieved. The most basic of systems (such as an older ‘heat only’ forced air / gas furnace with a standing pilot light) only need two wires for control. They connect to a two-wire thermostat (generally a mechanical thermostat with a mercury filled ball connected to a coiled bi-metal strip). A basic two-wire thermostat can be compared to a simple single-pole switch that you will find throughout your home, only instead of you turning the switch on and off as required, a mechanical or electronic temperature controlled mechanism is the operator of the switch.

• Install Honeywell Non Programmable Therm…

The terminals are usually marked ‘R’ and ‘W’. They usually operate at 24V ac power, and the source of this control power comes from a control transformer mounted either just outside, or inside the furnace body.

The line voltage feeding the furnace (to operate the fan blower motor) is transformed down to a safer level of 24 volts (the gas control valve needs 24 volts to open), and after making a series loop through at least one safety device (the most basic and mandatory one is an over-temperature shut down), the power goes up to the thermostat, and when the room temperature falls below the set-point, the contacts close completing the circuit to the gas valve allowing it to open, the main burner to ignite, and begin the heating cycle. In this the most basic of heating systems, as the temperature of the heat exchanger rises, another contact is closed on the line voltage side of the equation, and the fan blower motor starts moving air through the heat exchanger and out through the ducting in the home. If the fan fails to run for any reason, the heat exchanger will get too hot and the hi-limit temperature device will open the circuit to the gas valve, closing the valve and stopping the heat cycle. If your home’s system of this vintage has provisions for air-conditioning (cooling), then the thermostat wiring will have at least three wires (some will require a separate ‘R’ terminal for heating and cooling and will be labeled ‘Rh’ and ‘Rc’ now needing a minimum of 4 wires), ‘R’, ‘W’, and a ‘Y’ terminal. When the mode is selected for cooling (basic heat / cool thermostats have a mode selector for either ‘heat’, ‘cool’, or ‘auto’) when the room temperature rises above the set-point, the thermostat will close the connection between the ‘R’ and the ‘Y’ terminals completing the circuit to the compressor and condenser unit that provides the cooling for the evaporator coils mounted in the discharge ducting of the system.

The next step up from the older home systems was the introduction of the ‘fan on / auto’ switch. This function allows you to circulate the air in the house by using the fan in the furnace without heating or cooling the air moving through the system. In the most basic system, this functionality is provided by use of a fan center relay, and the low voltage wiring to the thermostat now will require a minimum of three wires (for heat only units) and four wires (for heat / cool / fan) for control. This additional terminal is labeled ‘G’ in the thermostat.

When the ‘fan on’ setting is selected, the contacts between ‘R’ and ‘G’ are closed turning on the relay that powers the blower motor directly regardless of a call for heating or cooling. If you are replacing an old thermostat with a new digital thermostat, the electronics in these units may need yet another wire for a terminal labeled ‘C’.

This terminal is for a common connection from the control transformer that will provide steady 24 volt power between terminal ‘R’ and ‘C’ to power the thermostat itself. If adding wires to your thermostat location is not possible, or very difficult, look for a thermostat that is battery powered which won’t require the terminal ‘C’ for operation. The obvious down side of this is that if the battery goes dead the thermostat will no longer function.

Climate control systems have evolved a great deal in the last several years with the evolution of electronic control. This has made the units more efficient, with added safety features, and with this comes increased difficulty for the average home-owner to repair or replace any parts of the system that may break down (and they will, but only when you really need it!) However, the terminals of the thermostats of today are still labeled the same, and provide the same functions as what we have discussed thus far. They just get a little more sophisticated so if you are pre-wiring a new home, check with the contractor providing the HVAC system as to what thermostat wiring is required.

A new system may need as many as ten wires (like a two-stage heat, two-stage cooling system, heat pump reversing valves, fan control, etc.) If the system had two-stage heating, and/or cooling, the 2nd stage termainals would be labelled W1 and W2 for heating, Y1 and Y2 for cooling. These additional terminals are not shown in this diagram. Now that you are armed with a basic understanding of the temperature control system in your home, you should now be able to identify what kind of system you have, and what type of functions you will need if replacing or up-grading your existing thermostat.

I hope this article helped with your question about thermostat wiring. Thanks for taking the time to read it! If you have any questions or comments on your furnace situation, feel free to add a comment below. Not sure about doing this type of project yourself? Have you been stumped by a three-way switch, struggled installing a new receptacle, or basically put off doing any wiring project yourself because you didn’t feel confident working around electricity?

I completely understand. Electricity can be downright scary. However, armed with the proper information you must have to work safely and completely, home owners like yourself CAN complete most simple home wiring projects. Rather than scour the internet looking for the information you need to work on a wiring project or problem, I can recommend a tremendous resource that pulls together virtually everything you will need to know. I don’t endorse many projects, but this is one that I fully endorse – “The Basics of Household Wiring” DVD or e-book. As I licensed, journeyman electrician, I have pretty high expectations for a DIY resource.

It must be professional, it must be technically correct, and above all, it must focus on safety. I found all of that in this DVD, and I am confident that you will be impressed with the quality of the information contained in this excellent resource. This easy to understand tutorial (and no – you won’t need to understand technical “jargon”) breaks down the majority of home wiring projects you’ll encounter around the house and provides detailed, step-by-step instructions on how to complete them – safely and competently. This comprehensive, professionally produced DVD will give you the confidence you need to work on any of those home wiring projects! It’s a tool that I recommend every DIYer consider adding to their tool box!. The C terminal is only used as a common return for accessories(humidifier, electrostatic filter, etc) that use power from the 24VAC circuit of the appliance, and is usually terminated within the appliance itself. If you don’t have a C terminal on the appliance just leave it disconnected at both ends.

If you were to connect the power source at R to a C terminal without a “load”, it will short the transformer and either cause the 3 Amp fuse to blow or you will burn out the transformer. Source: is an HVAC tech. I live in an apartment that has an old ac/heat system which is water blown. About a month ago the thermostat stopped working properly (would no longer automatically turn on shut off the unit according to the desired temperature setting).

Maintenance came in and replaced the t-stat with a new, different kind of t-stat that has a 3 screw (1-heat, 2-ac, 3-not marked) and a (apparently) factory installed wire plug in (green wire). When they wired the new t-stat they used (from the wall) the two black wires, one to the ac screw and the second to the unmarked screw. The two remaining wires, red and black are not in use.

Now the unit will only turn on when I turn the temp control knob past 68 degrees ans will only shut off when the knob is turned past 74 degrees. Any suggestions to correct this will be greatly appreciated.

InspectAPedia tolerates no conflicts of interest. We have no relationship with advertisers, products, or services discussed at this website. Thermostat wiring details & connections for nearly all types of Honeywell room thermostats used to control residential heating or air conditioning systems. This article gives a table showing the proper wire connections for Honeywell brand wall or room thermostats used to control heating or air conditioning equipment. Room thermostat installation & wiring guide: this article series explains the basics of wiring connections at the thermostat for heating, heat pump, or air conditioning systems. Din pro font family free download for mac.

Our page top sketch, courtesy of Honeywell Controls, illustrates the wiring diagram for a traditional Honeywell T87F thermostat used for 2-wire single pole single throw control of heating only in a typical gas-fired heating system. Honeywell Thermostat Wiring Guide. Honeywell Wall T87-F type Thermostats for sketches and drawings of Honeywell thermostat wiring hookups. PDF Honeywell International, Inc., 1985 Douglas Drive North, Golden Valley MN, 55422 or in Canada: 35 Dynamic Drive, Toronto, Ontario M1V 4Z9, Canada, Website: retrieved 2016/03/06.

PDF t that describes the DT92E thermostat Standby and other features. PDF instructions including how to enter the DT92 'Installer Mode' when needed. notes, wiring connections & copy of the RTH3100C Thermostat Manual PDF. also support for the Honeywell RET93E / RET95E series thermostats. Color Touchscreen Thermostat instructions, wiring connections, setup guide, copy of the TH9320WF5003/U Manuals PDF.

Contact Honeywell for Assistance in wiring or for spare parts for thermostats: Honeywell International Inc. 1985 Douglas Drive North Golden Valley, MN 55422 USA, Telephone: 1-800-0468-1502, or Website: How to Wire the Three-Wire Honeywell Wall Series 20 Thermostat. (3 wires found in-use at the wall thermostat) Thermostat Terminal ID Wire Color Three-Wire Heat Thermostat Hookup Comments (R) Red Red wire coming to the thermostat from the heater. See Note 1 in the table above. (W) Blue wire For Honeywell Wall T87-F type Thermostats Connect the blue wire coming to the thermostat from the heater or air conditioner (Y) White wire Watch out: For Honeywell Wall Series 20 type Thermostats connect the white wire coming to the thermostat from the heater or air conditioner to the (Y) terminal, not the (W) terminal. Also see - Honeywell Wall T87-F type Thermostats How to Wire the Honeywell the 5-2 Day Programmable Thermostat - RTH2300B1012.

Honeywell the 5-2 Day Programmable Thermostat - RTH2300B1012 alternative wiring tips Old thermostat wire label Connects to RTH2300B Terminal Comments C, C1, X, B nothing - not used Note 1 O, B, H O/B Y, Y1, M Y Note 3 R, RC, RH, 4, V R Note 2 G, F, L G W, W1, W2, H W Note 3 Notes: 1. Do not use C, C1 or X wire. Do not use B wire if you already have O wire. Wrap bare end of wire with electrical tape.

This thermostat cannot be used if your old thermostat had and used any two of the following wires: R, RC, RH, 4 and V. Place a jumper (piece of wire) between Y and W if you have a heat pump without auxiliary/back-up heat. How to Wire a typical Two-Wire Honeywell T87-F type Wall Thermostat. Thermostat Wiring Terminal Notes for typical Two-Wire Honeywell T87-F type Wall Thermostats (only 2 wires found in-use at the wall thermostat) Honeywell thermostat T87F type models include the Super Tradeline T87F1959 (replaces the T26A1433 and T87C1252), T87F1867, T87F2816, T87F2824, T87F2873. These thermostat T87F models vary by the operating temperature range they support and a few other simple features such as the presence or absence of a thermometer. Functionally and for wiring they are similar.

Thermostat Terminal ID Wire Color Two-Wire Heat Thermostat Hookup Comments (R) Red Red wire coming to the thermostat from the heater. Connected to the R terminal in the room thermostat.

See Note 1 in the table above. (W) White White wire coming to the thermostat from the heater, connect to the W terminal in the thermostat. The Honeywell 5-2 Day Programmable Thermostat - RTH2300B1012 thermostat cannot be used if your old thermostat had and used any two of the following wires: R, RC, RH, 4 and V.5 2.

Install Honeywell Non Programmable Therm…

Also see these other 3. Some thermostats will be supplied with a jumper wire or clip between the thermostat RH and RC terminal and will not provide a simple R terminal (such as the 3M-22 Filtrete).

Connect the red wire to RH and leave the jumper in place. How to Wire the Three-Wire Honeywell Wall T87-F type Thermostat. (3 wires found in-use at the wall thermostat) Thermostat Terminal ID Wire Color Three-Wire Heat Thermostat Hookup Comments (R) (RH) Red Red wire coming to the thermostat from the heater. See Note 1 in the table above.

(W) Blue wire For Honeywell Wall T87-F type Thermostats Connect the blue wire coming to the thermostat from the heater or air conditioner (Y) White wire Watch out: For Honeywell Wall T87-F type Thermostats connect the white wire coming to the thermostat from the heater or air conditioner to the (Y) terminal, not the (W) terminal. Also see these other - Honeywell Wall T87-F type Thermostats for sketches and drawings of Honeywell thermostat wiring hookups. Wiring Details & Troubleshooting for the Honeywell 5-2 Day Programmable Thermostat - RTH2300B1012 Remember that ultimately a thermostat is simply an on-off switch, or provides several on-off functions. But with multiple zone heat, you should expect to provide a thermostat for each individual zone - else they're not heating zones at all. In a traditional hot water heating system that does not use the Azel i-Link controller, the first thermostat is wired directly to an aquastat that controls the first zone; the second two thermostats are wired to individual circulator relays (if individual circulator pumps are used) or to individual zone valves (if a single circulator runs the whole system). Where zone valves are used, an end switch closes to turn on the circulator (a logical inclusive OR function with the other zone valves) when the zone valve opens to allow hot water to flow.

That same principle is used when wiring the Azel i-Link Zone Switching Relay. And the company makes clear that their controller is compatible with standard thermostats: ALL - controls are compatible with 2, 3 or 4 wire type thermostats. 24VAC output can be used to supply power to the thermostat. For thermostats requiring the 24VAC Common, simply connect C terminal from the thermostat to COM terminal on the 24VACoutput.

4 First let's make sure you've identified your Honeywell thermostat model correctly. Your Honeywell thermostat model number will begin with the letters, T, TH, RTH, C, or CT and is on the back of the thermostat. 5 Honeywell RHT2300B - the number you gave, doesn't look right, but you probably meant RTH-2300-B. Calling Honeywell with the right product number (Tel: 800-468-1502) might produce better results.

Honeywell has done a great job making installation and operations manuals available for their equipment, but you've got to search with the right product number. Searching the Honeywell site for the corrected thermostat number delivers a single product that's probably yours, the 5-2 Day Programmable Thermostat - RTH2300B1012. In fact this thermostat is widely sold including at Home Depot stores, and I've installed and used this very model myself to control an add-on hot water heating zone and Taco circulator in an older home.

According to Honeywell, this thermostat is compatible with:. Gas, oil or electric furnace. Central air conditioner.

Millivolt system. Central heating and cooling system. Heat pump without auxiliary/backup heat. (This thermostat cannot be used on heat pumps with auxiliary heating or on multistage systems.) For your model you want Honeywell document 69-2326ES - found at - owners operation manual or document 69-2327ES - for installation materials - found at Here are details from that manual's instructions for wiring the Honeywell RTH-2300-B 5-2 Day Programmable Thermostat beginning with the inspection of the existing wires: How to Correctly Identify the existing thermostat wires 3. Identify and label each of the existing thermostat wires by using not the wire colors (someone could have made a wire color error and violated convention) but rather, identify each existing thermostat wire by noting the letter next to the old thermostat wiring block terminals where each wire was connected to a screw.

Identify and label the wires that are connected as. R (convention would be red wire). W (convention would be white wire). Y (convention would be yellow wire). G (convention would be green wire). C (convention would be 'common' wire) If any wires are not attached to your old thermostat or are attached to a terminal marked C or C1, they will not be connected to your new thermostat.

Wrap the bare metal end of each of these wires with electrical tape, so it cannot touch and short other wires. Watch out: since here we are focusing on connections, I am leaving out some important procedure and safety details like removing and taping each wire end to avoid shorting, etc. So be sure to consult the installation manual in detail. Honeywell the 5-2 Day Programmable Thermostat - RTH2300B1012 alternative wiring tips Old thermostat wire label Connects to RTH2300B Terminal Comments C, C1, X, B nothing - not used Note 1 O, B, H O/B Y, Y1, M Y Note 3 R, RC, RH, 4, V R Note 2 G, F, L G W, W1, W2, H W Note 3 Notes: 1. Do not use C, C1 or X wire.

Do not use B wire if you already have O wire. Wrap bare end of wire with electrical tape. This thermostat cannot be used if your old thermostat had and used any two of the following wires: R, RC, RH, 4 and V. Place a jumper (piece of wire) between Y and W if you have a heat pump without auxiliary/back-up heat. Here is a copy of the PDF Other methods for identifying thermostat wires are at and. Honeywell RTH3100C Thermostat Installation & Wiring Below Honeywell shows the typical wiring connections or the RTH3100C thermostat.

Be sure that you label the wires before disconnecting them from the old thermostat, or if you are installing new equipment, identify the incoming wires from the equipment terminals and its manual. Click to enlarge any image Below are alternative wiring connections for the Honeywell RTH3100C thermostat along with an explanation. Below is the complete Honeywell RTH3100C thermostat installation manual in PDF format.

Try the search box below or by email if you cannot find the answer you need at InspectApedia. Question: Replacing a round Honeywell T87 with a Digital Honeywell Thermostat Hello - I am replacing a round Honeywell thermostat with a non-programmable digital Honeywell unit. I have a hot water system with multiple zones and with no air conditioning. There are three wires at the thermostat. On the old round unit the red wire went to the R terminal, the white wire went to the w terminal and a green wire went to B terminal.

I hooked up the new stat the same way but it would not work. If I selected 'fan on' instead of 'fan auto' the zone would heat up but would not shut off (hot water kept flowing even if I selected a temp below room temp).

Appreciate your help. Patrick - 1/20/12 Reply: Patrick, typically the three wire thermostat hookups would be exactly the same for the old and new thermostats. For details of wiring a typical and simple digital Honeywell thermostat, see. For help in understanding the wiring of your old thermostat, see and also see Question: Replacing a mercury thermostat with a digital unit I am replacing an old mercury thermostat with a digital.

My system is a heat pump. My neighbor gave me the digital, no instructions, no box.

I'm trying to decide if this is even a heat pump compatible thermostat. On the therm it has c, g, rc, rh (which are linked by a black wire.) w, y, b, and o. Coming out of my wall is, white connected on old therm w2, yellow connected to y, green conn g, black conn e, red to r, blue to b and bro to x. Any help would be great.

Kurt 6/4/12 Reply: Kurt, as you see in the examples at For help in understanding the wiring of your old thermostat, see and also see. Many thermostat wiring setups are straightforward or 'cookbook' but why not find the brand name on your thermostat and then you can obtain the installation instructions right from the manufacturer? Also, Honeywell's thermostat replacement advice (and most likely that of all thermostat manufacturers) warns: Watch out: MERCURY NOTICE: Do not put your old thermostat in the trash if it contains mercury in a sealed tube. Contact your local waste management authority for instructions regarding recycling and proper disposal.

5 Question: (June 11, 2014) I have a white wire but the new thermostat doesn't have a W terminal said: My old thermostat has this: R, G, Y, O/B (orange wire), W, C (blue wire) New thermostat has this: R, G, Y, O, B, C, and 'not used' I assume the orange wire goes to 'O', but where does the white wire from 'W' go? Reply: Place a jumper (piece of wire) between Y and W if you have a heat pump without auxiliary/back-up heat. Question: Aug 18, 2014) Robert said: Trying to replace a Honeywell model T834C1954 mercury stat (for heat pump) with new Honeywell programmable.

Old stat has YELLOW wire going to terminal marked 'P' - new Honeywell stats have no 'p' terminals. Honeywell 'tech' line person could not help - said I would have to trace yellow wire back to the pump - easier said than done. Any thoughts what terminal on new stat would be compatible with old 'P' terminal? Reply: Robert, I can't know what your system's yellow wire is doing, but by generic color code convention (see inspectapedia.com/heat/ThermostatTips.php ) Yellow is for the switched compressor compressor control circuit - for air conditioning or a heat pump.

(Aug 21, 2014) Robert said: Dan Joe, thank you!!! Based on your response, then, I 'should' be safe in connecting this yellow wire to the 'Y' terminal in the new programmable stat? Presuming 'worst case' scenario to be heat pump would simply not work properly and I just live with old stat? It is curious, tho, that old stat has a dedicated P terminal and none of new ones do. Appreciated your quick response - thanks again1 Robert Reply: Robert, I'm naturally scared to say 'safe' for anything diagnosed only by e-text, but I've indicated what we know about wiring.conventions. nobody here knows what actual wiring connections have been made at your home. You could try tracking down what wires go where by finding what you think is the other end of the same colored wire and using a VOM to confirm or test for continuity.

(Aug 21, 2014) Robert said: Absolutely understand and would never expect you to sign off on an e-text situation. As for tracking down the wiring to the source, this will be difficult. The 'home' is actually an apartment unit in a high rise building that my daughter just moved to.

The 'mechanical' room for the heat pump is basically a broom closet and, without knowing directly for what I'm looking. Well, you can probably understand.

Your 'tracking down' suggestion is exactly what the Honeywell 'help desk' finally offered when I called. Thinking that we may just abandon the project, return the new stat, and daughter will get used to old fashioned manual heat/cool control. Thanks again - I am impressed with your quick replies and effort to give advice.

Robert Reply: I'd regret giving up if in fact we could ultimately learn that the wiring solution was trivial. Look in the broom closet foe an access cover on the air handler that can be removed. Turn off power to the unit.

Look inside for the thin low voltage wiring, see if you see a yellow wire. (Aug 22, 2014) Robert said: Super! I will for sure give that a shot next time I am at the broom closet venue. We live 2 hrs. Apart so don't have prompt access to the challenge.

This really 'should' be a simple thing, methinks. Appreciate your tenacity in sticking with me on this!! It may be a few weeks before I get to daughter and then back on this thread to give you an update. But, stay tuned. 'I'll be back!' =:-) Question: (Oct 20, 2014) Blaine said: Have a Siemens RAA20 (high rise hot water heat) with 2 black and 2 white wires. One black goes to connection L, one white to connection Y.

Other black and white wire are twisted together in a copper wire connection. New thermostat Honeywell RTH2510B has the same Y connection but no L. It has O/B, RC, R, G, W/AUX. I think the black wire connected to 'L' in the Siemens RAA20 goes to terminal 'G' on the new Honeywell, but not sure? Any tips appreciated. (Feb 24, 2015) Karen said: Cannot get the red wire into 'R' with a jumper wire in my new Honeywell RTH221. The old thermostat had the red wire in 'RH' with a jumper wire.

Ask a Question or Search InspectApedia Questions & answers or comments about heating, air conditioning, and heat pump thermostat installation and wiring Use the 'Click to Show or Hide FAQs' link just above to see recently-posted questions, comments, replies, try the search box just below, or if you prefer, post a question or comment in the Comments box below and we will respond promptly. 2 Thanks to reader S.R. For discussing loss of heat due to a thermostat wiring mistake, October 2010. 3 Thank to Mr.

Scott Meenen, G&S Mechanical Services, for providing some common thermostat wiring codes also found at Mr. Meenen's web page Malware Deleted 12/9/2014. Meenan provides heating, heat pump, and air conditioning repair services in Maryland, Washington D.C., and northern Virginia. He can be contacted at 301-591-1646 or by Email to Malware Deleted 12/9/2014 - 10/2010.

Quoting: We service American Standard, Amana, Arco, Arco-Air, Bryant, Carrier, Coleman Evcon, Comfortmaker, Day/Night/Payne, Dunham-Bush, Fedders, Fredrich, Goodman, General Electric, Heil, Intertherm, ICP, Janitrol, Lennox (Armstrong, Johnson Air-Ease), Miller, Modine, Nordyne, Rheem/Ruud/Weatherking, Sears, Stewart Warner, Trane, Weather King, Williams, White-Westinghouse, Whirlpool, Weil Mclain, York, (Frasier Johnson/Borg Warner) and others. 4 Azel Technologies Inc., P.O. Box 53138 10 Royal Orchard Blvd. Thornhill, Ontario, Canada L3T 7R9 Ph: 905-223-5567 Fax: 905-223-3778 Email: info@azeltec.com, Website: www.azeltec.com.

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